So Long S.E.A (Jay)

The hotel staff continued to wave goodbye as we drove away. In the rear view mirror, their smiling faces faded and as we turned a corner, our time in Vietnam had come to an end. It was a fitting way to depart from a country where we experienced an unparalleled level of hospitality. The beginning to our last day had started, and would end with one last night in Bangkok.

We arrived at 7 PM, and were picked up by Pim - our tour guide from the first day. Our last night of the trip, we opted to try something new. Instead of staying in a hotel, we chose to stay with Pim in her small apartment complex. They had a few guest rooms, and located in the heart of downtown, we welcomed a change of scenery.  We could do without the plush robes, waterfall showers, and continental breakfasts for just a day - maybe. We checked in to our connecting flight to Moscow, and then headed to dinner with Pim. After a few unsuccessful attempts at having us eat at street shops (turns out nobody is in the mood for dog), we found an outdoor spot that could accommodate us. The staff spoke no English, but luckily Pim was able to convey that Corey and I were vegetarian, and our meal actually turned out better than we hoped. Though, after this trip, it's safe to say neither of us will be eating vegetables and rice for a long time. 

We said our goodbyes to Pim, as she had a birthday party to go to that night (our invite must have been lost in the mail). With no real plan, we reverted back to Asiatique - the waterfront dining/shopping area of Bangkok. Hearing live English music (1..2..3 - Bruno Mars), we wandered into a bar that was all too familiar. Our first night of the trip had started here. Coming full circle, we ordered some brews and started our reflection on the trip - the amazing people we had met, things we had seen, and places we had been. 

Traveling to the other side of the world provides a new perspective. Kids our age or even younger were working seven days a week, 16 hours a day, just to provide enough for their families to eat. Most locals hadn't traveled outside the country, yet alone their respective cities. Though the world is a huge place, it is easy to live inside the comforts of our own bubble. Music, culture, food, water - everything is different. Globalization is real. Climate change is real. Problems that we face seem insignificant in comparison to those of others. And that reality is something that you can't get out of a textbook, but rather something waiting to be seen at the other end of the flight. If there's an intangible to be gained by traveling to parts of the world like Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia - it is perspective - and the profound appreciation you feel for what you have that comes with it. 

Off my soap box, we left Southeast Asia with memories that won't be forgotten. There is a certain happiness that comes from playing with elephants in the water. A real thrill you feel when driving around a city with no traffic rules on motor bikes. An unforgettable sense of butterflies while scuba diving with no formal training. A feeling of flying when ziplining through the jungle. We had done everything we had hoped for, and then some. We had met incredible people. From travelers around the world to local children in rural Cambodia. We understood history from real stories from those who had experienced the riots in Bangkok, lived through the genocides of Cambodia, and been affected by the Vietnam War.  Early on we realized that traveling around the world with 3 friends is something that is afforded only in a certain part of life. A part where your money can be spent and your responsibilities are few. With that mentality, we did our best to make the most out of each day, maximizing each minute, knowing this was a once in a life time experience. Even the prospect of two 9 hour plane rides, a 17 hour layover, and more airplane food couldn't diminish the satisfaction we felt knowing we had just accomplished a trip that we will remember for the rest of our lives. 

Thanks for reading.

Our Time in 'Nam (Corey)

After a longer than expected transfer from the airport to Ha Noi's Charming Hotel 2 we were ready to enjoy our night out on the town. Jay insisted on a quick, NASA approved, 26 minute power nap to recharge. An hour and a half later we were off in search of a local watering hole to enjoy the famous Bia Hoi (Fresh Beer). After wandering the desolate old quarter, we squated down on a few of the child sized plastic chairs that line the streets and enjoyed our beers and conversation with a young friendly German couple. After about 30 minutes the clock struck midnight and the police had shut down the entire street. We handed over our $3.75 to the local "bartender" for finishing her keg and she thanked us before closing up shop and heading to bed in the back of the store. 

Another highly anticipated early morning for the group as we were boarded our bus to Ha Long Bay. The turbulent four hour ride through the rice fields only added to our anticipation for the 2 day 1 night cruise through Ha Long Bay.  Unfortunately, once aboard the V'Spirit Luxury Cruiseliner we were informed by the guide that the police were not allowing over night stays in the Bay due to inclement weather approaching. They mentioned something about sinking ships and drowning tourists, but regardless we were dissapointed. We spent the next few hours cruising the limestone rock-laden bay, exploring the Paradise Cave, and seeing the endemic floating fishing villages before the weather forced us into heading back to Ha Long Harbor. 

Our bus back to Hanoi wouldn't arrive for another two hours but as the old adage goes. You can't control the direction of the wind, but you can adjust your sails. So that's what we did. 

We finally got back to the hotel around 11pm. We wanted to maximize the new full day in Ha Noi so we got to bed early. 

The next morning we woke up and walked to the Temple of literature, the Hoa Loa Prison, and the French quarter. We piggy backed a free tour at the prison from an Australian group. The prison served as a French prison for Viatnamese during their occupation and then, more famously, for the Vietnamese to hold US pilots during the Vietnam war. The pictures, videos, and stories that they shared were a bit different than John McCain's takes of his time in what would be known as the Hanoi Hilton. 

Having already learned that Vietnamese go out early we headed back for quick nap before going back out at 7pm for the night. This time, however, the streets were bustling, shops were open and smalls plastic chairs for drinking and eating were everywhere. We made our way to the most famous area in town, Bia Hoi Corner. A busy intersection with tons of bars serving the areas namesake drink. We had the best seats in the house and we were enjoying watching the motorbikes dodge each other in the intersection and police monitor everything that was happening. The night didn't really start until a group of 6 Ha Noi University students asked to do a video interview for their project. Their project was to get a tourist's prospective on Bia Hoi corner (hectic) and of the quality of the fresh beer (bad). However, what they actually ended up with was a few hours of a street corner karaoke music video. Apparently, One Direction is more popular throughout the world than I thought. As pure gentleman we picked up the tab as our friends had to leave to head back home. Our night concluded after checking out a few more establishments  in the area. 

The next morning we had scheduled a tour through Hanoi Free Tour Guides and were pleasantly surprised when we were met by two young Vietnamese, Hiem and Lam, who were excited to show us around Ha Noi. Our first stop was to visit the mausoleum of the man who gained  independence and reunified north and south Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh. He is so beloved that every family refers to him only as Uncle Ho. After touring the living quarters Unclo Ho used and saw his final resting place, which all school children must also visit, we needed a more uplifting activity. Soon enough the three of us were entered into what can only be described as a tour guide bachelorette contest. We answered questions, performed talents, and ultimately pleaded our cases. The jury is still out on the true victor as she was only willing to pick the person who was physically closest to her heart. Sneaky move, Jay. After all agreeing on a mutual win we hopped in another karaoke cab and headed to a small hidden cafe that serves famous egg coffee and egg hot chocolate. You know the place is good when you ask about it and concierge jumps from her seat to tell you more. 

Our time with our guides was enlightening, funny, and memorable, but with time short we headed back to the hotel to say our goodbyes. We dished out hugs to everyone including the check-in counter, concierge staff, tour guides, and bellhops. By now we were practically family. As we loaded the taxi the entre staff came out and waved us goodbye. 

Angkor What? (Mike)

We said our goodbyes to Joel and had to find something to ease the pain of his departure.  What better way than a 4 hand massage? Easily sold by the phrase on the menu that said "must experience!", we each eagerly met our 2 masseuses.  Feeling relaxed, we called it an early night in preparation for a busy day ahead.

After a few hours of shut eye and only sleeping through our alarm twice, we met up with Mr. T and headed back to AngkorWat to see what we've been told is one of the best sunrises in the world. The temple was packed at 5am with hundreds of people eagerly awaiting the sun. Unfortunately, the skies were cloudy and the view was not as picturesque as we had hoped. Regardless, we were happy to see the temple again and looked forward to a few more hours of sleep before another packed day.

When we met back up with Mr. T around 11, we headed out to see two more temples.  The temples in Siem Reap are beautiful but Mr. T’s stories and anecdotes really made the experience come alive.  

After a quick lunch, we embarked by boat to explore a local floating village.  These people live on the water year-round and their sea legs are so established that they typically have trouble walking on solid ground.

 

We said our goodbyes to Mr. T for the night and headed to Le Tigre de Papier on Pub Street for a traditional Khmer cooking class. We were joined by several other young tourists and each chose an appetizer, entree and dessert to prepare.  Dishes ranged from vegetarian spring rolls to Amok trey, a traditional dish made with snakehead fish.

Stomachs full, we headed to Pub Street accompanied by our new friends from the cooking class.  We immediately took over one of the local bars and our table became a mecca for most of the other bar patrons.

Our last day in Siem Reap began with a scenic hike through the mountains and a visit to Banteay Srei, the Temple of Women

 

Finally, we went to explore the carving school where local artists create various crafts, paintings and pottery.

 

Our time in Cambodia was a great addition to our trip.  Big thanks to Mr. T for showing us a great time.

 

Cambodia I hardly got to know you (Joel)

With the sun shining, the Full Moon Party coming to a close, and Siem Reap awaiting our arrival, our times of island fun  in the south of Thailand were undoubtedly coming to an end. Despite a night/early morning of raucous (and practically no sleep) the group was determined to make the ambitious, but achievable 9:30 AM ferry ride off the island. We exploited every moment of the next hour of travel to snooze, although it was nowhere near enough time to make up  for the marathon that was the Full Moon Party. 

We found ourselves once again at familiar place, the gate awaiting the departure of our next Bangkok Airways flight. The service on the next two flights was once again impeccable. The flights and connections went off without a hitch, however some notable highlights include: (1) Corey somehow sitting in the back of the plane alone while Jay, Mike, and myself enjoyed a row in the front together, (2) immediate disappointment upon opening my kosher meal to find only an apple and two green tangerines, and (3) an impressive meal service during a record setting 35 minute flight from Bangkok to Siem Reap.

We arrived in Siem Reap early in the evening where we were met by our tour guide "Mr. T". He kindly chauffeured us to our accommodations at the Memoire D'Ankor. The group was pleasantly surprised with Mr. T's recommendation. The rooms were spacious and clean and the location was more than ideal. Located in the heart of downtown Siem Reap, just a few minutes' walk from the infamous Pub Street, the Memoire served as the perfect starting point for our adventures in Cambodia.

The group was visibly tired, not sleeping for 36 hours tends to take a toll, but it was my last night in South East Asia, so we were determined to make it more than memorable. Pub Street was undoubtedly the only place to go on a night like this; with restaurants serving food from around the world, beer and spirits practically given away for free, and music blaring - this locale was sure to keep us awake. The night was a blast, we partied our way through Pub Street's famous bars Angkor What? and Temple.

After meeting some interesting characters, sharing some North American dance moves, and swapping travel stories we headed back to the hotel to grab some shut eye before our day of temple touring around Siem Reap.

Mr. T picked us up bright and early. The next several hours were spent touring three of Siem Reap's most magnificent temples; Ta Prohm, Bayon, and Angkor Wat. Having a native Cambodian tour guide is the only way to visit these temples in my opinion. Mr. T shared not only the history behind these amazing works of architecture but their significance and importance in modern day Cambodian history.  After hearing of the hardships, wars, and violence Mr. T had experienced it was hard to fathom how much the region had changed in last 35 years. 

Ta Prohm

Bayon (the smiling temple)

Angkor Wat

Our adventure continued with an ATV ride throughout the rural countryside on the outskirts of Siem Reap. The excursion was the perfect opportunity to gain insight and prospective on life in Cambodia outside the hustle and bustle of downtown Siem Reap. As we passed through rice paddies, farms, and countless local villages it was hard not to think about how our lives are so vastly different than those people we encountered. But perhaps the most surprising and memorable experience was meeting some local children who were playing at a temple just beyond the city limits. While clearly of meager upbringing, their faces were filled with smiles and joy and our group could not help but stop our tour and play some games with the crowd. 

By now my hours in South East Asia were numbered, I joined the group for a final meal of pizza, local smoothies, and Cambodian fare. I said goodbye to my travelling companions as the three were staying behind. I made my way to the airport, heading back to the grind of everyday life. South East Asia you will surely be missed!

So long 50 cent drafts :(

Ko Samui - part 2 (Jay)

We awoke after a full night of sleeping feeling refreshed. We were excited and nervous, as none of us had ever been scuba diving before. Apparently, there are a few preliminary courses and certifications you're required to take and have before you're allowed to dive....which, we learned quickly, doesn't really apply in Thailand. We were picked up at our hotel with another traveler from Canada. A veteran scuba diver, he gave us some survival tips. Notably, don't hold your breath under water or your lungs will explode. When we asked what was in his bag, he replied "my equipment, of course. You think I would trust the equipment they have here in Thailand??" All filed under things not to say to new scuba divers. 

After a 45 minute drive in the back of a pick up truck, we reached the offices of our scuba team. In an effort to settle our nerves...we did what anyone would do: gave ourselves really cool scuba nicknames. So....Posidon, Scuba Steve, SEABASStian, and The Guardian (you can guess who is who) started to gain some confidence and were ready to try on our gear. We met our instructor, Bruno, a 50ish year old man from Italy. After casually having us sign a few liability waivers, we were ready to get on the boat and go out to Sail Rock - one of the top 50 scuba sites in the world.

About 10 minutes before we reached Sail Rock, Bruno came up to give us some instructions in his English, which is about as good as my Italian. Conveniently, he forgot the written in English safety briefing, so we were left to his vivid hand motions to learn how to stay alive. But rest assured, he told us, he would do our safety exams for us! Even under our scuba aliases, our confidence was shaky at best. Nevertheless, we suited up in our wet suits, put on our oxygen tanks, and jumped in the water. 

Luckily, Bruno was joined by another instructor from South Africa named Jon who spoke perfect English. Not so lucky, he was extremely hungover and fell asleep during our training. Our first task in the water was to go down with the instructors, one at a time, and learn 3 critical skill sets. Using our oxygen regulators and back up regulators, cleaning our goggles, and finding the regulator in the event we lose it. We passed with flying colors and submerged under. The experience was incredible. 40 feet under water and immersed in the maritime environment was something we will always remember. Swimming alongside the fish and watching them interact in their natural habitat was unlike anything we've seen before. We opted to pay a little more and do a second 45 minute dive which we thoroughly enjoyed more now that we were comfortable in the water. The only hiccup came was when the instructor realized Corey's equipment failed (shocker), had almost no oxygen left, and had to hook him up with his emergency regulator. Other than that, we were completely fine and given the opportunity, we all want to actually become certified. 

We came back to the hotel tired, sore, and needing to nap out of necessity. Given the full moon party goes from 11 PM-9 AM, the only way we would be able to make it was to pass out for at least 3-4 hours. When we woke up, we were ready to get to this party that we had been hearing about for the past 7 months. We walked onto the beach and were overwhelmed (in a good way) by the 15,000 people, lights, and blasting music. 

What we walked into

We had 10 hours ahead of us, and started to explore the different scenes on the beach. Perhaps the most memorable one was the rope of fire. Pretty much exactly what it sounds like. Two guys on elevated platforms swing a giant rope on fire as people jump over it. Corey tried, and immediately was smacked in the face with the firey rope which was enough to deter the rest of us. We continued to walk around, meet people, and that's when our hangover moment happened.

We lost Mike. One minute he was there, and another he was swept away in the sea of 15,000 people. Corey, Joel, and I tried to figure out what to do. We knew we wouldn't be able to enjoy the rest of the party worried about where Mike was. We didn't want to risk losing each other either, as the probability of finding someone at the party was slim to none. Determined to make it work, we reassumed our scuba aliases and became what only could be best described as some version of Seal Team Six. Joel sprinted back to the hotel, Corey went left, I went right, and established a rendezvou point and time. We climbed elevated platforms, checked the water, and scanned the streets. Our first attempt, however, failed. As more time passed, the chances of finding Mike faded away. Refusing to give up, we tried another strategy of combing the beach in one direction spread out from top-mid-bottom, scanning our designated areas. Miraculously, I spotted a lost Wolly and we all celebrated. It was exactly what we needed at 4 AM to rally. The rest of the night we spent dancing until the sun rose.

It was a once in a lifetime experience to say the least. We went straight from the party to catch our 9:30AM ferry, and head to the airport to catch our plane to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Thailand had been the trip of a lifetime, and we were only half way done our tour of Southeast Asia.

Ko Samui - part 1 (Jay)

The alarm went off at 4 AM. By now, we were used to operating with little or no sleep. The struggle to get out of bed never gets easier though, and we lazily gathered our things to catch our 6 AM flight. After 3 jam packed days of riding motor bikes, elephants, and zip lines, our bodies desperately needed a break. The thought of relaxing on the beaches of Ko Samui served as a strong motivator to push through as we entered the airport at sunrise.

Two plane rides, a cab, and a ferry later - we finally made it. It was exactly what we had hoped for. The water was a clear blue, the beaches full of white sand, and, well...the pictures says it better than I can

Our bodies needed a nap, but we knew better. We could sleep when we got back home. Grabbing a few refreshments from the local 7-11 (note: Thailand must have the most 7-11s per capita in the world), we set out to explore this beach town. The first thing we noticed was that everyone here was under 30. While we didn't meet one other American during our time here, we did meet several young Australlians, Israelis, and Europeans. All of whom were on 'holiday' for at least one month. When we told them we were traveling for two weeks, they had a hard time understanding why we could take such little vacation time. Surely, they suggested, a trip to the other side of the world could hardly be worth it for only two weeks. We began to realize that in many countries, it is not unusual, and is even encouraged, to take frequent and long vacations. Must be nice.

As we continued to explore this young beach town, we came across a local who moved from Australia and started a touring company. Quite the salesman, he intrigued us with excursions of cruising around the island, snorkeling, and scuba diving. We had a decision to make.  We wanted to go out that night, and make sure we were rested for the most anticipated event of our trip  - The Full Moon Party (2 days later). Exhausted already, we were hesitant about how many more adventures we could handle. After an in depth discussion, cost benefit analysis, and budget consideration - we somehow opted to do all of it. Constantly falling back to "When else are we going to get to do this?" - we traded in some of our relaxation time to continue maximizing this trip. 

As we walked back to the hotel, it caught up with us. We had fully exerted ourselves since day one in Bangkok, and needed to take some time to recharge. We took the much needed nap out by the pool of our hotel, and awoke as the sun was setting and our night began.

The local Australian salesman had recommended an Italian place, Mona Lisa's, for dinner. Growing slightly tired of Thai food, Italian sounded like it would be a refreshing change. Little did we know that once we had tried the food here, we wouldn't eat at any other place for our 3 day trip. Literally. It was just that good.

Lasagna 

Veggie Pizza 

Well rested and well fed, we continued our night by heading to the 'largest pool party' in Thailand. Splashing around in a giant pool with 400 other tourists wouldn't go down as the most hygienic event in the world, but it was fun meeting and learning about other people, places, and cultures. Fortunately, it was next door to our hotel, and when we got tired, it was just a few short sandy steps away to the comforts of our bed.

We thoroughly enjoyed the next morning as it was our first chance to sleep in. Even better, the hotel provided a breakfast buffet  with fresh fruit, eggs, french toast, potatoes, and vegetable rice. We would be cruising around the island for the full day, and snorkeling, so naturally, we stuffed our faces. We left for the cruise, hopped on board, and knew that when we were greeted by this guy (our captain)  - we were in for a good time.

The group on board was quiet and not very talkative at first. Knowing we would be together for 7 hours, we hoped it wouldn't be spent in a long awkward silence. However, as we sailed around the island, taking turns to jump off the boat into the water, and swim up to the beaches - we got to know our fellow travelers better and learn more about them. We snorkeld as a group, getting some good views of the the exotic fish of Ko Samui. As we boarded the boat to return to the island, and the crew started playing music, you wouldn't have known we had all just met that day. 

We cruised back home taking in the beautiful sunset from the water. We said goodbye to our new friends, and planned to all meet again at The Full Moon Party. After another quick bite at Mona Lisa, we headed to bed early anticipating our 6 AM wake up call for our first scuba diving experience.